Overview

Henty is the new name for what was previously termed the Far South West or Drumborg. Viticulture was pioneered in 1964 by Karl Seppelt, who accurately conceived it as an ideal cool region for the production of sparkling and delicate, aromatic wines. 

The Big Picture

This is undulating terrain and prime grazing country, long famous – like much of western Victoria – for the quality of its wool. Protection from the wind, which exacerbates the effects of cold temperatures at flowering, is an important consideration and leads to the selection of sheltered north and north-east facing slopes wherever possible, or at least the cultivation of windbreaks.

Henty Wine Region

Climate

Together with the Macedon Ranges, this is the coolest of the wine growing regions on the Australian mainland and has presented local vignerons with the experience, unusual in Australia, of producing quality wines from grapes grown in quite cold temperatures. The ample number of sunshine hours results in a growing regime not unlike that of the Canterbury Plains of the south island of New Zealand or northern European climates such as the Rhine Valley and Burgundy. In common with those areas, Henty is beginning to make a distinct impression with varieties such as Riesling, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Soil

The vineyards are most widely planted on Cobboboonee Basalt soils: weathered basalt with gravelly loam topsoil overlying red clay.  More recent plantings have variously utilised rich black volcanic clays, maritime sandy loam over limestone, and patches of terra rossa over limestone. 

Wines

Chardonnay: Wines of a northern French character are starting to be produced, with typical linden lime aromatics and fresh palates with lively acidity.

Riesling: Arguably the best suited grape for the making of table wine (although there has been a handful of extraordinary Gewürztraminers made by Seppelt), Riesling is made by all the wineries in the region. Fine, intense, gently lime-accented wines gradually assume toastier characteristics as they develop in bottle over a decade or more, but they do not lose their hallmark elegance. If the volume (or the number of wineries) was greater, this region would likely rank with Australia's best. The occasional Botrytised Riesling simply adds lustre to the overall performance of Riesling here; once again elegance and intensity combine to produce a wine of exceptional quality.

Cabernet Sauvignon: The vintage conditions have to be favourable, but when they are Cabernet (either alone or blended with Merlot and/or Cabernet Franc) is produced with striking similarities to a classified-growth Bordeaux (from the Haut Medoc); sometimes redolent of cassis, or otherwise tending more to cedar and cigar box. One or two varietal Merlots (produced in miniscule quantities) have also been very exciting. All the wines in this family age particularly well.

Pinot Noir: Around Hamilton, the vines of this variety are still very young although, as with Chardonnay, they show much promise.

Sparkling Wines: The three classic grape varieties of Champagne – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier – account for more than half the total plantings and are largely directed to Seppelt sparkling wine making. The release of a single, regionally-designated wine is rare.

Vital Statistics

A Case in Point: John Thomson, Proprietor & Winemaker, Crawford River Wines, Henty, Victoria

Purity of site expression has long been a driving force behind John and Catherine Thomson’s single estate, dry grown vineyard at Crawford River, in Victoria’s far south-west. Underpinned by the philosophy that high-quality wines are born of high-quality grapes, the 33-year-old estate has been meticulously tended by hand throughout its life, including picking and pruning. A fourth-generation woolgrower, John chose the 11.5 hectare sloping site in 1975 on the sheep station his great-grandfather had settled in 1884.

The mineral-rich soil in which the vines find their roots comprises friable basalt loam, overlaying permeable clay, above limestone created by an ancient risen sea bed. With temperatures moderated by the cool southerly latitude (38° S) and maritime influence, and an unusually complex soil structure and favourable micro-climate, Crawford River creates wines of distinction which reflect the unique terroir.

Quality, consistency and sustainability are of vital importance to the company. Attention to detail is crucial in both vineyard and winery operations, with a minimal intervention approach adopted in the winery. Canopy and yield management is paramount, with an unusual arched-cane, vertical canopy system allowing maximum light and air filtration throughout the long, even ripening period.

Organic principles are practised where possible and practical, although with the homecoming in 2005 of John and Catherine’s daughter Belinda, whose passion lies with biodynamic principles, the vineyard is heading towards an even more natural, sustainable future.

John Thomson

Summary

A gentle autumn ripening period with low but high-quality yields produces elegant crafted wine in the Henty region.  Situated to the east of South Australia's Coonawarra and Padthaway wine regions (at corresponding latitudes), Henty has eight wineries and cellar-door outlets with many more vineyards in the region.  Riesling is the stand-out variety, with each of the wineries producing its own unique style.

Acknowledgements

Victorian Wine Industry Association

Wineries, Cellar Doors & Vineyards

Arcadia Park Wines, Barretts Gorae West Wines, Bochara Wines, Crawford River Wines, Hochkirch Wines, Kingsley, Seppelt Drumborg and Tarrington Vineyards.

If you would like to have your winery included in this list, please email awbc@awbc.com.au.